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Binchotan (備長炭) is a Japanese white charcoal made from very hard oak and finished at over 1,000°C (1,830°F), so it burns hot, burns for hours and gives off almost no smoke or smell. It's the charcoal the best yakitori shops in Japan grill over, and it's also what Sapporo Coffee Kan burns to roast the Sumiyaki coffee we carry.
When I talk about Sumiyaki coffee at events, the conversation almost always ends up on the charcoal. That makes sense, because an important part of roasting coffee over charcoal is not just the roaster's skill but also the type of charcoal used (and binchotan is a pretty special one).
You will sometimes read that binchotan simply means "charcoal" in Japanese, but that's not quite right. The kanji 炭 is charcoal, read sumi on its own and tan at the end of a word like binchotan, which is why you'll also hear it called bincho-zumi. Binchotan is one particular kind of charcoal: a long-burning, clean and natural alternative to charcoal briquettes.

What Binchotan Means and Where the Name Comes From
The name goes back to the Genroku era (1688 to 1704) in Kishu, the old name for Wakayama Prefecture. A charcoal merchant in Tanabe called Bitchuya Chozaemon (備中屋長左衛門) started selling charcoal made from ubame oak that burned hotter and longer than ordinary oak charcoal, and the charcoal was named after him. You can actually see it in the kanji: 備 from Bitchuya, 長 from Chozaemon, and 炭 for charcoal.
During the Edo period, Kishu charcoal was shipped all the way to Edo (today's Tokyo), where it was prized as a high-quality fuel for city life. It became so popular that "binchotan" turned into the name for this whole style of white charcoal, which is why you now see the word on charcoal made far away from Wakayama.
Binchotan and Its Qualities
Bincho charcoal is said to be one of the highest-quality charcoals for cooking and roasting. It is quite a bit more expensive than ordinary charcoal, but there is a reason. Once it's lit, binchotan burns with almost no flame, gives off steady, intense heat and makes almost no smoke or odor. The heat is also more even than a roaring lump-charcoal fire, so the outside of whatever you grill gets crispy without the inside drying out.
These log-shaped sticks combine the best parts of lump charcoal (all natural, no binders) and briquettes (even, predictable heat). Binchotan itself barely smokes, so the smoky aroma you love in yakitori actually comes from the fat dripping onto the hot coals. A lot of its heat is far-infrared, which is why people in Japan say it cooks food "from the inside out". There's even an old saying that binchotan's heat is so intense it can burn a hole through the middle of a pan. I've never tested that (and I wouldn't!), but it shows how much heat these sticks hold.
The main raw material is ubamegashi (ウバメガシ), the ubame oak, a slow-growing evergreen oak that is extremely hard and dense (it is also the official tree of Wakayama). The finished charcoal is so hard that people say it can scratch glass, and when two pieces strike each other they make a clear, metallic "kin-kin" sound. The surface has a grey metallic sheen that hides the fact that it was ever wood.
How Binchotan Is Made (White Charcoal vs. Black Charcoal)
Japanese charcoal comes in two families. Black charcoal (kurozumi, 黒炭) is made by sealing the kiln at the end so the fire slowly dies inside. White charcoal (shirozumi, 白炭), which is what binchotan is, goes the other way.
The oak is dried, stacked in a clay or brick kiln and carbonized slowly, with the heat going up in stages (roughly 200°C, 400°C, 550°C and 900°C, or about 390°F, 750°F, 1,020°F and 1,650°F) over many days. In the last stage the maker opens the kiln and lets air rush in, so the heat climbs to around 1,000 to 1,200°C (1,830 to 2,190°F). That final blast burns off what's left of the bark and impurities and permanently changes the charcoal's internal structure.
Then the glowing charcoal is pulled out of the kiln and smothered with a mix of sand, soil and ash to put it out. That powder leaves a whitish-grey coating on the surface, and that's where the name white charcoal comes from (break a piece and it's black inside).
The result is charcoal that is usually quoted at over 90% carbon, much higher than ordinary black charcoal, with very little moisture or resin left in it. That's the reason it burns so clean.
Different Types of Binchotan
There are quite a few types of binchotan, and the name on the box tells you a lot.
- Kishu binchotan (紀州備長炭) from Wakayama is the original and still the most prized, made from ubame oak in places like the Akizu River area of Tanabe City. Legend says charcoal making was brought to Kishu from China by the monk Kobo Daishi (Kukai), though that is a story rather than recorded history. This is the artisanal charcoal used by high-end yakitori and unagi restaurants in Japan.
- Tosa binchotan from Kochi, on the island of Shikoku, is made from ubame oak and other hard oaks. Kochi is one of the biggest producers today, and it's usually a little more affordable than Kishu.
- Hyuga binchotan comes from Miyazaki in Kyushu, also mostly from hard oak.
- Imported binchotan from Laos, Vietnam or Indonesia is made with the same white-charcoal method but from local hardwoods. It's cheaper and works fine on a grill, but it isn't the same wood.
- Ogatan (オガ炭) is the hexagonal tube with a hole in the middle. It's made from compressed sawdust, and it burns long and clean too, so many yakiniku shops use it. It's sometimes sold as "binchotan", but it isn't the real thing.

Restaurants love the long sticks because they burn for hours, which is perfect for a grill that runs all evening. In Japan, using Kishu binchotan is almost a statement: it tells customers something about the quality of the meat, the grill and the restaurant itself. It conducts heat quickly, holds it very well and stays consistent in a small space, which is why it's so good in a narrow ceramic grill like a konro.
On the box you'll also see grade names for the shape and size, like maru (whole round sticks), wari (split pieces) and komaru (small round). Thicker pieces burn longer, and a typical piece of white binchotan burns for about four to five hours. In the US you may also find a hardwood charcoal from Vietnam sold as aramaru. It burns for three to four hours and reaches between 900 and 1,000°C (1,652 and 1,832°F), and since it's easier to light and cheaper, restaurants often mix it with white binchotan.
Binchotan vs. Regular Charcoal
Unlike standard American charcoal, binchotan is not easy to light. It needs around 20 to 30 minutes in a chimney starter, over a gas burner or in an open flame before it's ready. But once it's going, it gives you powerful, steady heat with hardly any flame. It also has no additives (no binders, nothing soaked in lighter fluid), so it's very safe to cook your food over.
Ordinary charcoal tends to flare up, and that uncontrolled flame can dry the meat out. Binchotan keeps the heat steady, so you get a beautiful sear while the food keeps its juices and aroma. It's also much better at absorbing bad odors than ordinary charcoal, which is one reason it shows up all over Japanese homes (more on that below).
| Binchotan | Regular charcoal and briquettes | |
|---|---|---|
| What it is | White charcoal from very hard oak | Black lump charcoal, or briquettes pressed with binders |
| Carbon | Usually quoted at over 90% | Lower |
| Time to light | 20 to 30 minutes | 10 to 15 minutes |
| Burn time | About 3 to 5 hours | About 1 to 2 hours |
| Smoke and smell | Almost none | More smoke, and briquettes can smell of additives |
| Reuse | Yes, put it out and light it again | Lump sometimes, briquettes usually burn to ash |
| Price | High | Low |
How to Light Binchotan (and Put It Out So You Can Use It Again)
- Keep it dry. Binchotan can pick up moisture, and damp pieces can crack or spark when they heat up, so store it somewhere dry.
- Light it in a charcoal chimney or on a gas burner (in Japan there are pans made just for this, called hiokoshi). Give it 20 to 30 minutes, until the pieces glow all over.
- Skip the lighter fluid. Binchotan is so dense that it doesn't help much anyway, and you lose the whole point of a clean, odorless charcoal.
- When you're done, don't pour water on it. Put the pieces in a lidded metal can (in Japan, a hikeshi-tsubo, 火消し壺) so they go out from lack of air. The leftover pieces light faster next time, so nothing goes to waste.

Binchotan for Water, Rice and Around the House
Binchotan is very porous, so it can soak up chlorine and some impurities, which is why it is also used in Japan to make water filters, toothbrushes and even towels (yes, really). The most common use at home is a stick in a water pitcher:
- Scrub the stick with a brush under running water (no soap) and boil it for about 10 minutes. Let it cool and dry.
- Put it in a pitcher of tap water, about one stick per liter (about a quart), and leave it for a few hours or overnight.
- Boil it again every couple of weeks to open up the pores, and replace it after about three months.
A small piece in the rice cooker is another old trick in Japanese homes. And when a water stick is used up, it gets a second life as a deodorizer in the fridge or the shoe cabinet, and in the end you can break it up and mix it into garden soil.
(One honest note: this mostly improves the taste and chlorine smell of water that is already safe to drink. A stick of binchotan isn't a certified filter, so don't rely on it for water you wouldn't drink otherwise.)
Binchotan and Coffee Roasting
This is where binchotan comes into my world. It's perfect for coffee roasting because it makes a much stronger fire than a gas burner and produces almost no water vapor as it burns, so the beans are roasted by dry, radiant heat instead of being steamed. The charcoal is hard and difficult to ignite, so the roaster has to manage the fire, keeping it at about 500°C (930°F) and raising it toward 1,000°C (1,830°F) by fanning in air. It is a little expensive, but it burns two to three times longer than other charcoal.

Charcoal roasting takes a lot of experience, because keeping the heat constant is hard. Bincho charcoal makes that easier, since it has a high calorific value, a long burning time and a lot of far-infrared output, so a skilled roaster can get a relatively stable roast out of it.
Sapporo Coffee Kan in Hokkaido, the roaster we partner with, burns binchotan in their Sumiyaki roaster, a 30 kg (66 lb) machine that is the largest in Hokkaido. If you'd like to see where the charcoal actually goes, I wrote about it in how a Sumiyaki roaster machine works, and there's more on the flavor side in what is so special about Sumiyaki charcoal roasting.

Honestly, the easiest way to understand what binchotan does to coffee is to taste it. If you're new to Sumiyaki, I'd start with the Hokkaido Blend, Sapporo Coffee Kan's house blend, which is mellow and rich with almost no acidity. If you like single origins, the Indonesia Lintong comes from an exclusive contract farm south of Lake Toba in Sumatra, and the Brazil Cerrado comes from the Shimada Plantation, run by a third-generation Japanese Brazilian grower. And for a smooth, balanced cup in the Blue Mountain style, try the Yuki Sora Blend.
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